Cow’s milk, subject to strict government gradation and price controls, is an obsessive element of American diets, touted as the “perfect food.” It also provides a national imagery of dairy farms and chores that typifies wholesome American life. The Dairy Council has produced years of effective advertisements supporting consumption, including a famous series showing celebrities from Spike Lee to Health and Human Services’ Donna Shalala with a milk moustache. Nonetheless, it is no longer recommended for children under the age of one and Americans not of Northern European descent may be lactose-intolerant as adults.