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feeling bottom
As waves approach the coast and move into shallow water, the sea bed affects their propagation, leading to phenomena such as wave refraction and wave breaking. The latter is easily observed on any beach; as the waves approach the beach they steepen and break. As a rule-of-thumb, waves feel the bottom when the water depth is less than approximately one-quarter of their wavelength.
- Parte del discurso: noun
- Industria/ámbito: Tiempo atmosférico
- Categoría: Meteorología
- Company: AMS
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Creador
- Kevin Bowles
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